Mestia, Svaneti, Georgia

Mestia is a historic fortified village in remote northwest Georgia and the main base to ski the Svaneti region & the ski resorts of Tetnuldi & Hatsvali. It is worthy of a few nights stay on any visit to this intriguing nation and may indeed be the highlight of one's journey. The 'capital' of Svaneti region, Mestia has all the elements of a classic frontier town, remote from the niceties of the world and with the whiff of adventure still clinging to its ancient, fortified stone towers. Nature still rules here too. During winter roads will close, the power will go off and the snow will get deep, but it is oh such a joyous place to be as a base for a ski adventure.

Pros & Cons for Mestia

Pros

• Fabulous local hospitality & food.
• Fascinating history, culture & local architecture.
• Incredibly affordable.
• High elevation ski resort nearby with a reliable, deep snowpack.
• Big mountain skiing & snowboarding opportunities with amazing off-piste & backcountry terrain directly off the local ski lifts and above/beyond them.
• Relatively new ski lifts in the region.
• Options for cat & heli-skiing nearby.
• The whiff of high adventure is FREE!

Cons

• Local roads to & from Mestia (including up to the ski areas) can be extremely difficult to drive particularly later in the season when freeze/thaw is active.
• Skiers & snowboarders that are not on organised tours can get charged exorbitant rates to be driven up to the resort from Mestia.
• Ski lift operation in the region can be unreliable but are improving.
• The ski resorts have only limited on-piste terrain.

Pro or Con (depending on your perspective!)

• Flights to the nearest airport (Kutaisi) can be limited, planning is key!
• Not your ideal family ski holiday destination!
• The village has alot of free-roaming animals including cows, dogs, horses & pigs!
• No easy public transport options to get to the area.
• Electricity blackouts can occur for extended periods (although reliability is improving).
• Once free of tourists during winter, Mestia is increasing in popularity during the colder months - go sooner rather than later.
• Mestia is still a rough diamond, things can and will go wrong, but it will all work out in the end!

Skiing & Snowboarding near Mestia

The best freeride ski resort in the country, Tetnuldi, is less than one hour drive from Mestia (when the road is good!), and the smaller Hatsvali is right on Mestia's doorstep. Perfect for a storm-riding day, such is its convenience we have walked to, & skied back from, Hatsvali to our accommodation in the centre of town.

Heli-skiing is based right near the village. Week-long trips are possible for the cashed-up, plus more affordable day trips or single trips can be undertaken depending on availability. Full-day heliskiing is conducted predominantly in the high mountains of Svaneti, beyond reach of everyone else. Single lifts are usually up the top of Chalaadi Glacier, with return being by vehicle pick-up back to Mestia. See more about Svaneti Heliskiing.

The other side of Mestia is the unprecedented access to vast backcountry ski terrain. Numerous Svan villages replete with the region's signature fortified stone tower houses make incredible backcountry touring destinations, with typical ski descents of 1,400m vertical possible. The isolated village of Ushguli, oft called the 'gem of the Svaneti', is one of the ultimate ski-touring locations, but there are many others.

Cat skiing is also possible near Mestia with two base of operation. One is near the Tetnuldi ski area and starts from the base of the ski lifts. Single trips, or full day outings are possible. The snowcat provides a fast reliable mode of transport up the mountain in the morning before the lifts open and can be a great way to get first tracks or start a ski-tour down to Adishi (or somewhere similar). Many of our tour partners can include this option in their tours. The cat operation usually starts later in the season. The other base of operations is on the opposite side of the valley on the route up to Chalaadi Glacier. Indeed the cat can be utilised to shorten the ski-touring journey up to the glacier.

The best way to make the most of a ski & snowboard trip to Mestia is to join a tour. Also, it is almost a prerequisite for skiing here to have splitboard or ski-touring gear. To not have it is a waste.

Things to Do in Mestia

Aside from using Mestia as the base to go skiing & snowboarding throughout the Svaneti region, the village itself is full of sights, tastes, smells & sounds that should be sampled before or after being in the mountains.

There are several Svan towers that can be climbed for a small fee to the owners. Try the Machub Tower, just up from the main road through Mestia. The museum is worth an hour of your time to get a sense of the history of the place. For great bread, there is a traditional bakery in the centre of town with a tone oven selling delectable loaves for 1GEL.

When walking the streets of Mestia, there are a few things worth mentioning. One of them is that this is truly rural Georgia so don't be surprised if you come across wandering dogs, cows, horses & even pigs. They are all totally humanised and no threat whatsoever. Another thing to consider is that road clearing is hit and miss her, so walking on the sometimes-narrow roads is definitely at ‘one’s own risk’!

In the evening there are a host of bars & restaurant to try throughout the town. Don’t be shy to try the various dishes offered in restaurants. The food here, as with most of Georgia, is sensational.

Where is Mestia, Georgia?

Mestia is in the remote Svaneti (Svanetia) region amongst the highest peaks of the Caucasus mountains in northwestern Georgia. Only . The nearest major city & airport are at Kutaisi, 250km by road south of the ski area. The road journey from Kutaisi is a tortuous 5 to 6hr. Whilst it’s hard to fathom why it takes so long, once you have been on it in winter conditions you quickly understand! For the final 1½hr the road can be very rough and icy, potentially littered with falling rock hazards & avalanches, plus at night, the many wandering horses, cattle & dogs can be difficult to see. It is a fun experience!

The Kutaisi Airport (KUT) is super-modern and comfortable but has only a limited number of flights daily from several major & secondary airports throughout Europe. We flew into Kutaisi from Vienna (VIE) on the Hungarian airline Wizz Air. Flight was good but be careful with their pricing as every add-on costs! Alternatively, flying into Tbilisi (TBS) is an option, but the journey to Mestia is several hours longer. Tbilisi is a wonderful city to visit though, so the few hours extra travel may be worth it, plus the airport has a huge variety of airline options, as opposed to Kutaisi which is very limited.

From the Kutaisi airport the quickest way to Mestia (& Tetnuldi) is via a private transfer. Unless you have one organised with a tour operator or hotel, use GoTrip for a private shuttle, but pay a little more for a good, safe driver and ensure the vehicle is at least All-Wheel-Drive with winter tyres.

Mainstream public transport services direct to Mestia from the airport do not exist (that we are aware of any!), so a bus or taxi into the city, then a minibus (marshrutka) from the main Kutaisi bus station is required. This is a cheap alternative (25-30GEL) to a private transfer, but it comes with the relative discomfort of a lengthy transfer in a cramped bus plus a big question mark over where one puts your skis! Good luck with this option!

Once in Mestia, the skiing at Tetnuldi is only a 15km, but 1hr long, drive east of the town. Journeys to Tetnuldi are not the easiest in the world, but far from the worst. The road is well graded and cleared throughout winter, but is generally snow-covered from December to mid-March, then can become very difficult later in the season as freeze/thaw sets in. If you are confident enough to drive oneself in a 4WD rental, the road is fine. If you are on an organised tour, relax and enjoy the ride! Local accommodation providers can organise a taxi or shuttle up to the mountain, but it is recommended to only use 4x4 or truck/bus transport during winter. The shuttle's up to the mountain partly fuel the local economy so the price can be as steep as the ascent if not in a group. Rental cars should similarly only be driven up by experienced drivers with vehicles equipped for winter driving. The term best used to describe how to drive in the Georgian mountains is 'with caution’.

For more information about getting around the country, see our Travel to Georgia page.

Mestia Accommodation

Mestia is a town full of character, with a multitude of fortified tower houses & mountains filling most views from its vibrant centre, plus a wide range of superb hotels & guesthouses to choose from. There are loads of unbelievably good places to stay in Mestia, but not for the reasons you'd think. Whilst there are some fine hotels sprouting up around the village, the real juice is to stay in a locally owned & run guesthouse. The rooms may be a little rougher, the bathrooms possibly more rustic, and the heating a little less reliable, but the food, hospitality and general cultural nourishment that one receives staying in a guesthouse cannot be underestimated.

For an authentic Mestia experience stay in a traditional, affordable guesthouse like Dodo Japaridze Guesthouse in the centre of town. With its own Svan tower and in a quiet position overlooking town another awesome place to stay is Guesthouse Lanchvali. In between the two but still overlooking the town, is a beautiful mix of boutique hotel & guesthouse, Hotel Old House Mestia.

Alternatively, for those prepared to pay a bit more, an increasing number of full-service hotels like the modern Suntower Hotel provide all the comforts for a great stay in the region, but lack the heart, food & traditional experience of guesthouse stay. The most expensive place in Mestia, and some would argue, the best place to stay, is the 4-star Hotel Posta located in the centre of town close to all the action.

If travelling independently and without your own transport, guesthouses & hotels can assist with organising transport up to the ski area if they don't have their own shuttle service.

Search & book here for all Mestia accommodation.

Shops & Services in Mestia

There is everything one could require on a short ski trip in Mestia including a quality ski rental/repair shop (Ride Svaneti). Lots of small markets for food & drink are dotted along the main street. Transport providers should you require them, gather in the centre of town at the 'bus station'. As previously mentioned, there are a plethora of restaurants and bars to try.

More Reasons to Visit Mestia

Mestia is the gateway to 'last best ski adventures in the world'. However it is rapidly growing in popularity and NOW is the time to visit. It is still affordable, it is still remote, and it is still a place where fresh tracks are almost guaranteed. Go, go ,go .....

Review

The Powderhounds visited Mestia in late January/February 2024. We loved its wonderful sense of adventure & untamed nature & chaos, the glorious food, the incredible architecture, wonderful accommodation & of course the gob-smacking snow & ski terrain. It is up there with the best ski adventure locations in the world. Click on the review link in the left column (or top of the page if on a mobile) to read the latest inciteful & droll postulations!

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