Arolla & Evolène Ski Resorts Switzerland
In a classically Swiss Alps alpine valley, with high mountain peaks and glaciers snaking down their flanks, the Val d’Herens has long been a secret hideaway for skiers seeking a quiet outpost in an ever-maddening world. The Val d'Hérens ski resorts of Arolla, Evolène & La Forclaz make up the collective ski region called Espace Dent-Blanche (presumably named after the looming 4,357m peak, Dent Blanche = white tooth!). Simple lifts, a relaxed attitude, affordable prices, splendid vistas, awesome food, friendly locals and mountains full of off-piste freeride potential make it a guarantee that you should visit at some point soon in your powder privileged lives.
Pros & Cons for Arolla & Evolène Ski Areas
Pros
- High-altitude, generally snow-sure ski areas.
- Long skiable verticals of over 1,000m at Arolla & Evolene.
- Uncrowded slopes & negligible lift lines.
- Wonderful off-piste freeride, ski touring & backcountry skiing opportunities.
- Quality on-piste trails for intermediate skiers, with descents up to 8km long at Evolene.
- Good value lift pass combining all three ski areas under Espace Dent Blanche.
- Gob-smacking vistas.
- Affordable accommodation.
- Beautiful villages, in particular Evolene.
- Great local food.
- How is the serenity?
Cons
- Aging lift infrastructure that mainly consists of very long surface tows (which may challenge beginners, snowboarders and those gone soft on a diet of 8-person hooded express chairs with heated seats designed by Porsche!).
- Few advanced piste trails (but some great ones at both Arolla & Evolene!).
- Limited (but still uselful) public bus services to Arolla (but better to Evolene).
- Skiing La Forclaz is not worth the money or effort to get there.
Pro or Con (depending on your perspective!)
- Val d’Herens is a quiet, traditional Swiss Alps valley with a remote feel and without all the ‘bells & whistles’ of other ski regions.
- Limited snowmaking, therefore many of the slopes are at the full mercy of mother nature.
- Sunny slopes in the morning on easterly aspect terrain (except the tiny La Forclaz which is westerly aspect so sunny in the afternoon).
- Accommodation can be limited in the valley, particularly on weekends.
Skiing & Snowboarding, Lift & Terrain
The Espace Dent-Blanche skiing & snowboarding terrain is spread across 3 small to medium ski areas and includes 104km of mostly intermediate piste trails on predominantly east-aspect slopes. Arolla is the largest with up to 47 km of trails (but in reality, it is less!), 1,000m of skiable vertical above its high 2,000m altitude base, and the most advanced runs (9km of black trails). Closely following is Evolene with 42km of trails, of which 80% are rated intermediate, and 1,280m of skiable vertical from a 1,400m elevation base. Between them, the westerly aspect La Forclaz has 15km of both easy and intermediate pistes, providing a place to learn the art of sliding on snow, but sadly the set-up and infrastructure are not ideal!
Check out the ski trail map for Arolla, Evolène & La Forclaz (Espace Dent Blanche) below.
Away from the piste trails, Arolla in particular has a multitude of off-piste freeride opportunities. The many surrounding peaks & glaciers, coupled with relatively few people compared to adjacent valleys, make it a land of promise for powder hounds. Ski touring from the lifts at Arolla or up the valley expands the freeride terrain immensely and includes all manner of high alpine Swiss pleasures. Look at some of the possibilities on the Arolla ski-touring map.
The ski lifts in the Val d’Herens are a stark reminder of the way things used to be before you grew lazy on a diet of 10-person heated seat gondolas and hooded 6-seater express chairlifts. Only one chairlift, an aging double, is in the entire valley, used to access the high alpine terrain at Evolène. Everywhere else it is a case of testing one’s leg strength on surface tows, both T-bars & J-bars. The old-style lifts do two things. One is to limit the crowds visiting these resorts. Two is to test beginner snowboarders, possibly limiting their numbers in the valley too! We do not recommend Arolla for any snowboarders other than advanced or experts.
There is a plan to replace the ancient two-seater chairlift in the Evolène sector with a new 8-seat gondola, vastly improving comfort and drastically decreasing the travel time. Originally proposed to open by the 23/24 winter season, the plans appear to have drifted out a little beyond that, and construction is now due to start in 2025 (perhaps for opening in winter 25/26). Try and ski here before the gondola goes in as it is a
Lift Passes
Lift tickets in Val d'Hérens are available in three flavours. The Espace Dent-Blanche lift pass is valid in all 3 ski resorts (Arolla, Evolene & La Forclaz) & represents reasonably good value for the 104km of ski trails. The smaller La Forclaz ski area has a more affordable ‘local’ lift pass which is OK for novices & progressing beginners. Cheaper lift pass rates for ski-tourers using the Arolla lifts to access the high alpine zone can also be purchased.
The excellent value 'Magic Pass' is also valid in all of the ski areas. If planning on spending time skiing the 'secret stashes' of southwest Switzerland, we recommend you get a Magic Pass.
Where is Arolla & Evolène Switzerland?
The Espace Dent-Blanche ski region is in the Val d’Herens, a valley south of the Rhône River valley in the French speaking part of Valais. The furthest ski resort up the valley, Arolla, is 39km (1hr) by road south of the major town of Sion. Evolene is closer; 24km or a shade over 30 minutes by rental car.
The closest gateway airports is Geneva (GVA), 195km (2½ to 3hr) drive east to Arolla. The small airport in the Rhone valley at Sion (SIR) is an option for travellers from London, Zurich and those with their own private plane! Search & book here for all airport transfers to Arolla Evolene.
Rail & bus services to the Val d'Hérens villages of Evolene or Arolla are via Sion. Trains from Geneva airport take a little over 2hr (on the IR90 service, direction Brig) to get to Sion, where buses or private transfers can finish the journey up the valley to Arolla. From Sion train station (gare), bus route 381 heads to Les Haudères via Evolene. From Les Hauderes, a change is required (it is however usually the same bus!) to the bus 382 for Arolla. Arolla Magine is the main stop at the ski lifts in Arolla village, with the journey from Sion taking around 1¼hr. Unfortunately the route 382 bus services to Arolla are limited to 5 per day so check the timetables carefully if using them to get around the valley. For Evolène, the route 381 bus runs at least 9 times per day and takes around 35min to the village. Search & book here for train tickets to Arolla Evolene. Buy bus tickets direct from the driver.
Arolla Evolene Accommodation
The ski accommodation available in the Val d’herens is in the main villages of Arolla, Les Haudères, and Evolene. The entire valley has a propensity for simple, affordable, family run lodgings with fabulous food offerings, rather ‘over-the-top’ luxury hotels. Numerous apartments and holiday homes are also available throughout.
Are far as proximity to the Espace Dent Blanche ski areas, the village of Evolène is closest to the chairlift base at Lannaz (1½km away), Arolla is next to the ski lifts & pistes of Arolla (plus has a few ski-in ski-out options), and Les Haudères is just below La Forclaz, and central to both of the others. For ambiance, beauty and authenticity, Evolene is the pick of the villages to stay in, akthough there is clearly alot of development going in around its fringes, possibly to do with the impending improvement in lift infrastructure (i.e. the new gondola).
Search & book here for all Espace Dent Blanche ski accommodation in Arolla, Les Haudères or Evolene.
For detailed information on the best accommodations in the area, see our Where to Stay in Arolla-Evolene page.
Ski & Snowboard Rentals, Lessons & Guiding
Ski equipment rentals are available via our local partners near the ski lift base in the village of Arolla. Receive a discount when you search & book via our Arolla Evolène Ski & Snowboard Rental page.
If you want on or off-piste ski or snowboarding lessons or want to be guided around the freeride & backcountry zones of Arolla, search, compare & book instructors & guides via our Arolla Evolene Ski Lessons & Guiding page.
Review
The Powderhounds visited Arolla & Evolène in January 2023 and again in February 2025. We are astounded by its authenticity, its beauty, its quiet, its calm and its splendid ski terrain. That is a lot of 'its'! It is clearly a place to visit. Click on the review link in the left column (or top of the page if on a mobile) to read all the reviews.
See how Arolla-Evolène compares to the rest of the Swiss ski resorts on the Switzerland ski resort ratings page, or compare to the rest of Europe on the European ski resort ratings page.
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