Macugnaga and its hamlets reside in an undeniably spectacular part of Italy. The Monte Rosa massif rises over 3,250m vertical above the valley floor, providing the sort of spectacular alpine backdrop that dreams are made of.
It had snowed in huge volumes at Macugnaga in the previous weeks, but by the time we reached it from Switzerland, the sun & rain has done its business and largely ruined the snowpack down low. A smattering of wind impacted fresh up high was still fun though and provided us with just enough to get a feel for what might be possible in the right conditions.
We were planning on checking out the backcountry terrain into the Saastal Switzerland from the top of the Monte Moro sector, but high winds & thick cloud rolling over the ridge from the Swiss side provided no visibility. Another time perhaps.
The ski lifts could best be described as ‘extremely well-maintained vintage’. The 2 cable cars & three chairlifts all appeared to be in superb condition. The 2 double chairlifts on the Belvedere & the double chairlift on Monte Moro suffered from a serious lack of pace. I could feel myself aging as we slowly ascended. If you came here for high-speed turnarounds on the lifts, then you definitely came to the wrong place. Remember though, the lift pass price is incredibly cheap, particularly on weekdays, so having high expectations about the modernity of the lifts is unrealistic.
The Belvedere sector at Pecetto has several delightful, long, larch-lined pistes above the mid-station. They would be perfection on a snowy storm day when the high alpine was socked in. Below mid, the terrain flattens dramatically and provides a wonderful zone for novices & progressing beginners. At the base, two conveyors provide gentle uphill movement for first-timers. The snow along the entire vertical was spring slush, wonderful for fast turns up top, but requiring no turns down the bottom! Off-piste in the larch either side of the upper chairlift was doable and would be a hoot in powder, just not on this day.
Belvedere’s mountain restaurants at the top, mid & base are what one hopes for when visiting a traditional Italian ski area. Ristoro Paradiso at mid is the pick for the best polenta, met & pasta dishes, plus scrumptious sweets.
Monte Moro’s pistes had powder snow up high on the novice slopes, and were bulletproof, boilerplate lower down toward the chairlift. The pistes to Alpe Bill below the chairlift bottom station were closed until they softened significantly by lunchtime, allowing one to head down without fear of death! The advanced pistes were not groomed and upon inspection were nigh on unskiable with coral like crud & avalanche debris strewn across where they would normally be located. For off-piste freeride there was very little on offer due the state of the snow surface as described above. There is scope here for sure, just not on this day.
I noted that whilst it is not marked on the trail map, there is a way to ski the last 400m ish vertical back down to the village from Alpe Bill. A summer road winds it way down to the skiers right before the cable car terminal. Take care as it is not maintained in winter. The locals use it regularly. Ssh, don’t tell anyone…
The villages retain much of their past architectural heritage, a local mix of rustic Walser alpine style with Italian touches. Modern additions are tasteful and in line with the overall ambiance of the valley. On weekends the bars are pumping & restaurants busy. There are even a couple of late-night bar options. Most accommodation is within walking distance of the ski lift bases, but the reality is if you are not prepared to walk to them, then perhaps you should be skiing somewhere else.
Unable to secure last minute accommodation for what we regarded as a reasonable price, we stayed in a self-contained apartment down the valley at Pontegrande, just below the compact mountain village of Bannio. Bannio proved to be an incredible place to explore and should be on everyone’s radar for a visit when travelling in the region. Evening strolls through its many laneways followed by aperitifs and a fabulous dinner at the wonderful Albergo Ristorante Bar Passo Baranca proved to be a highlight for us.
Driving to & from Macugnaga in Valle Anzasca could be a challenge for those not used to the frenetic pace of the locals, and the narrowness of the road in winter conditions. We drove it in spring-like conditions with only a little ice here and there and, despite our years of mountain driving experience, were still a tad discomforted by a few narrow blind corners. We easily secured a parking spot across from the Alpe Bill cable car station. A little surprising to pay for the privilege. Seems this was the first year of introducing a parking fee, nominal though it is. Not sure who checks it or what happens if you don’t pay. The ticket machines were difficult for everyone that tried to use them, even the locals. The car park at the base of Belvedere is another story on a sunny weekend ski day. Best described as bedlam, on busy days I would avoid it. Even if you get in early, one might yourself ‘parked in’ and unable to move the car. The better option is just at the start of Pecetto where a municipal parking garage has loads of space available for free.
I have always been fascinated by Macugnaga. It held an almost mystical place in my catalogue of ‘must ski’ locations in the Alps, so it was unfortunate we skied it in less than perfect snow conditions. I am still intrigued to see what it is like on a powder day, so shall return.
See our thoughts on the pros & cons of the ski resort via our Macugnaga overview page.